In most modern kitchens, substandard acrylic tile sealant caulk or pure silicone is used between kitchen counters and backsplashes. With time, these caulks tend to crack and get moldy. In some cases, you can even find a layer of grout on top of this caulk. The dirty caulk becomes even more prominent if the counter and the backsplash are dark in color. Cracked and dirty caulk isn’t just unsightly, but it can also be a source of embarrassment, especially when you have guests around. The good news is that the place where the kitchen counter meets the backsplash can be recaulked pretty easily.
The following steps will help you recaulk the area where the kitchen counter meets the backsplash.
Let’s break it down.
Existing Caulk Removal
To begin with, remove the trim. Some kitchen counters have a flexible plastic edge trim, while some have a peel and stick caulk. The flexible edge trim is easier to remove. Before you recaulk, make sure to remove the existing caulk very carefully. Start by removing the loose pieces by hand. Once all the loose caulk is removed, use a scraper or a sharp putty knife to get rid of the rest. To protect the finished surfaces from scratching, it is better to use a plastic knife. Try to remove as much caulk as possible, without damaging the finished surfaces.
Surface Cleaning
Now that the flexible caulk has been removed, comes the part where you clean the surface. The cleaning agent used should be effective, yet it shouldn’t damage the surface in any way. Instead of using some other form of cleaner, apply a small amount of high-quality thinner. If it cleans the surface without leaving any residues behind, clean the whole thing with it.
De-lamination Inspection
The material bonded to a base is referred to as the laminate. Fireboards and woods are two of the most common laminate materials in the case of backsplashes and counters. If the laminate is exposed to water or some other form of moisture for too long, it will surely lose its ability to bond. Use your finger to inspect the undersides of the laminate. Doing so, you will determine whether or not there are bubbles. Use your hand to life the laminate lightly enough so it doesn’t get damaged, and make sure not to pry. Do not lift it too high, or you will break the bondage and also the laminate. To remove any dirt, debris or grime between the wood and the laminate, make sure to vacuum clean the area.
Allow the Area to Dry
This is by far the most essential step. By allowing enough time to dry, you will make your job far easier. If the sink is nearby, it is in your best interest, not to use the sink at all, while the process is in progress. Keeping the water faucets shut is the best way to keep yourself from making a mess.
Repairing the De-Lamination
It is best if you allow at least a day or two for the drying to take place. In the meantime, your job is to make sure there is no dampness, so keep checking. After every hour or two, use a clean dry cloth or tissue paper to inspect whether or not dampness exists. If the area is still wet, extend the drying time. To make things easy, use a pedestal fan, and keep the doors and windows open, to allow enough air in. If it takes too long to dry, apply the cement according to the manufacturer’s instructions. It will be almost impossible for you to make the cement reach the factory bond. Therefore, try to get it as far as possible. When joining, try to start from the edges. This way, you will be able to push the cement even further. While working your way back towards the edges, inspect the area for any bubbling underneath the laminates. The moment you feel satisfied with the job, apply some weight to the laminate. You can use weights and wedges, and if need be, leave them overnight.
Remove the Wedges and Weights
Now that the job is almost complete, comes the part where you remove the weights. During the process, some cement may have leached from the back. To remove it safely, use your hand or a sturdy putty knife, made out of plastic.
Masking
Now that the weights have been removed and the leached cement cleaned, comes the part where you need to bring out some masking or painter’s tape. Using the tape, mask the edges at an angle where the backsplash meets the countertop. In the middle of the two layers of tape, leave at least 0.6 cm for caulk. The tape that you use shouldn’t leave any residues behind.
Bring In the Caulk Tape
Now that the former caulk has been removed and the surface prepared, comes the part where we shall apply the caulking tape. Measure the area that needs to be caulked before you apply the tape. Now, pre-bend the tape, so that it applies in a way that it forms a 90 degrees angle. Now, without removing the back wrapping, place the caulk in the area where the kitchen counter meets the backsplash. Make sure the caulk doesn’t get wet during the process. After placing the tape, start from one corner, and slowly remove the wrap. Continue to move towards the other end very slowly. During the application, apply slight pressure to the tape with your fingers. The worst thing you can do is apply the caulking tape hastily. After the caulk has been applied, and the tape wrapping removed, leave the caulk to dry for at least 12 hours. In these 12 hours, make sure the caulk doesn’t come in contact with water.
Tape Removal
The last step in the recaulking process is tape removal. Before removing the tape, check the tape edges to make sure whether or not the caulk is still wet. After the caulk has completely dried, lift the tape. As you lift the tape, there shouldn’t be any wet caulk left. In case the caulk is still wet, allow some extra drying time. It’s totally up to you whether you would like to use a peel and stick trim or a flexible plastic edge trim.
When recaulking between the kitchen counter and the backsplash, make sure not to skimp on any of the steps mentioned above.
Author Bio
Greg Amundson is the founder and creator of InstaTrim & have been working in the home construction industry for 30+ years and have always had a passion to make DIYers’ life easier by developing products like white molding trim strips, black caulk tape, grey PVC corner trim, etc.
